Post 5: The Art of Eiko Ishioka

Eiko Ishioka is one of my biggest inspirations as both a visual artist and media maker. What's interesting is that while she is not known by name, she's made a distinct mark in the world of advertising, music, film and theater as a production designer.

Arguably her most recognizable work is Francis Ford Coppola's Dracula (for which she won an Oscar for best costume design in 1992), but her distinct visual style was also apparent and some may say, a main draw for those who went to see the Tarsem Singh film The Cell in the year 2000 and the music video for Bjork's song Cocoon. While she is not usually in the directorial role, I believe that her work as a production designer is distinct enough to put her into the category of auteur due to it’s being instantly recognizable and essential to each film.

Eiko had her start in advertising, which some may say attributes to her bold and controlled graphic sensibility. Only four years after joining the advertising division of the cosmetics giant Shiseido, she has already won Japan’s most prestigious advertising award. So it goes without saying that her work has been met with great praise. 

Her work can be characterized by her carefully controlled pallets and use of distinct geometries that produce fantastic images that have a surreal atmosphere which transcends traditional conventions. In Dracula, she combines historic research of period costume but infuses each with an animal quality. Lizard skin becomes a lace print and snakes become appliqués on a ballroom gown. Dracula's armor itself is inspired by an armadillo . To her, research is simply a starting point for her to be able to freely invent upon.

As far as criticism, there has been very little with he exception of the controversy surrounding the music video for Bjork’s song “Cocoon” because in which the singer is depicted seemingly naked and painted white as red threads burst from her nipples and slowly form a cocoon around her. Given the content of the video it was actually pulled from MTV and banned from being shown (http://tinyurl.com/kffbsqj). 

Works Cited:

Dracula. Dir. Francis Ford Coppola. 1992. Film
Bjork. "Cocoon" 2002. Music Video
"The genius of Eiko Ishioka". HT Mint. 22 February 2013. Retrieved 22 February2013.
Ishioka, Eiko. Eiko by Eiko: Eiko Ishioka, Japan's Ultimate Designer. San Francisco CA: Chronicle in Association with Callaway, 1990. Print.